News

 

February 15, 2008

New Ellen Tracy Owners Make Plans To Expand

Liz Clairborne has sold bridge brand Ellen Tracy to a group of business partners for $42.3 million. The brand was scooped up by Barry Sternlicht, Radius Partners LLC and Windsong Brands LLC for far less than the $180 million that Claiborne paid for it five years ago.

The new owners plan to reinvigorate and expand the brand with a new designer and added retail locations in the U.S. and abroad.

Ellen Tracy currently reaps $100 million in volume a year.

Posted by Blacks on 09:53 AM | Comments (0)

February 06, 2008

Raf Simons To Design Capsule Collection for Fred Perry

Jil Sander designer Raf Simons is designing a capsule men’s collection for British brand Fred Perry. The line consists of 13 pieces that will be available for fall.

The capsule collection includes polo shirts, turtleneck sweaters and wool trousers in the better price range.

The collaboration replaces Fred Perry’s previous menswear deal with Comme de Garçons. Simons has agreed to design for the brand for at least two seasons.

Posted by Blacks on 12:15 PM | Comments (0)

January 17, 2008

Banana Hires Brooks Bros. Exec As New Creative Director

Simon Kneen has been selected as the next creative director at Banana Republic. Kneen hails from Brooks Bros. where he held the same title. He replaces Debra Lloyd, who left Banana in October to join Kate Spade.

Banana parent company The Gap Inc. is hoping that Kneen will be able to reinvigorate the flagging brand. Kneen previously designed for Casual Corner and Italian fashion house Maska.

Posted by Blacks on 04:48 PM | Comments (0)

January 14, 2008

Claiborne Taps Bartlett To Design Men's Line

John Bartlett will be designing Liz Claiborne’s new sportswear line for men, which is set to launch in spring 2009. The line, dubbed Claiborne by John Bartlett, will wholesale in the range of $15 to $300 and be carried in around 1000 locations.

Claiborne is currently shopping around for a designer to do a similarly-priced line for women. A decision is expected to be made within a matter of weeks.

Posted by Blacks on 08:28 AM | Comments (0)

January 10, 2008

Donna Karan Offers Zodiac-Themed Handbags

Once again Donna Karan is trying her hand at bags with a prefall collection of handbags inspired by the signs of the zodiac. The leather and exotic skin bags are crafted for longevity and considered separate from her ready-to-wear collection.

Leather handbags wholesale from around $400 to $1100, while evening bags range from $350 to $2,550. Exotic skins such as python start at around $400 and go up to $12,000 wholesale.

Posted by Blacks on 08:02 AM | Comments (0)

January 03, 2008

Betsey Johnson Warms Up With Outerwear Line

Betsey Johnson has signed a licensing deal with The Levy Group to produce a full line of outerwear. The collection will be priced to compete with better products and will be available at department and specialty stores this fall.

Jackets, coats and rainwear will feature Johnson’s signature design elements, such as bright colors, prints, hearts and roses.

Johnson is also looking to expand her brand with licenses in other categories, as well as the addition of more freestanding retail stores.

Posted by Blacks on 11:02 AM | Comments (0)

December 18, 2007

Report: Slimane In Brand Talks With LVMH, Others

Hedi Slimane is reportedly negotiating with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton to launch his own fashion house. The 39-year-old French designer just left Dior Homme earlier this year to start his own brand. At the time he said he wanted freedom over his name and designs.

Now he is reportedly testing the waters with a number of potential backers, including LVMH and Diesel’s Renzo Rosso.

Posted by Blacks on 09:29 AM | Comments (0)

December 12, 2007

Adrienne Vittadini To Relaunch For Fall '08

Popular nineties brand Adrienne Vittadini is aiming to make a comeback with new better and bridge lines that will distributed for fall ’08 in high-end department stores.

The bridge sportswear line is called Vittadini and will wholesale for $75 to $450 while the better line, dubbed Adrienne Vittadini, will wholesale from $34 to $200.

The company is opening a showroom in Manhattan and will run the brand under a licensing model that includes marketing.

Posted by Blacks on 09:44 AM | Comments (0)

November 30, 2007

Johan Lindeberg To Design For William Rast

Swedish designer Johan Lindeberg is teaming with pop star Justin Timberlake to produce a sportswear collection for Timberlake’s William Rast label.

Lindeberg will design a men’s wear line and his wife Marcella will design a women’s line for Fall 2008. Both lines will debut at Project Las Vegas and Coterie this winter.

The collaboration represents a move away from William Rast’s core denim business toward a wider contemporary audience.

Posted by Blacks on 10:26 AM | Comments (0)

November 06, 2007

London Fog Tries Its Hand At Weather Proof Bags

London Fog is introducing a line of affordable handbags that are treated to resist moisture.The line will be available in department stores next fall in the price range of $100 to $250.

The Iconix-owned outerwear firm is taking advantage of the weather proof technology to cement its reputation as a classic and highly wearable brand.

The company is also considering a foray into other parts of the accessories market, including jewelry, belts, men’s accessories and small leather goods.

Posted by Blacks on 09:19 AM | Comments (0)

October 29, 2007

Lagerfeld In Distribution Deal To Expand Brand

Tommy Hilfiger Corp. has licensed the Karl Lagerfeld brand to an Italian manufacturer in the hopes of expanding the label in the U.S. and Far East.

Manufacturer Vaprio Stile will be in charge of production and distribution of the brand, starting with Lagerfeld’s fall 2008 collection.

Parent company Hilfiger is also reportedly considering a mass market collection under the Lagerfeld name, following the brand’s success in its collaboration with retailer H&M.

Posted by Blacks on 09:20 AM | Comments (0)

October 04, 2007

New Helen Wang Collection Taps Into Dress Trend

Contemporary designer Helen Wang is launching an upscale collection of dresses under the new HW Helen Wang label. The collection is being offered to high-end specialty stores for next spring with wholesale prices from $230 to $380.

Wang is definitely tapping into a trend, as dress sales have skyrocketed over the last year. The designer is hoping that the new collection will to do $1 million in wholesale in its first year.

Posted by Blacks on 09:38 AM | Comments (0)

October 02, 2007

Lagerfeld Gets Shady With New Eyewear Collection

Karl Lagerfeld is launching his own eyewear collection, which will be available in department and specialty stores in January. The collection will be produced and distributed by Marchon Eyewear with prices ranging from $175 to $250.

The move seems like a no-brainer for Lagerfeld, who is never seen without his own signature shades. The first line, dubbed Sun, features 24 styles in a variety of colors.

Posted by Blacks on 09:56 AM | Comments (0)

September 20, 2007

DKNY Jeans To Open Doors In Asia, Europe

Donna Karan International plans to open 11 standalone DKNY Jeans store in Europe and Asia by the end of this year. The retail push is a result of a deal Donna Karan made with Club 21 Retail Holdings to manufacture and distribute DKNY Jeans.

The new stores will be sprinkled across England, Turkey, China and Thailand. Liz Claiborne Inc. still holds an exclusive license for DKNY Jeans in North and South America.

Posted by Blacks on 10:01 AM | Comments (0)

September 19, 2007

Report: Abboud Forging Design Deal With L&T

Designer Joseph Abboud is working with Lord & Taylor to create an exclusive menswear line, according to a report out Wednesday. The possible deal comes just a few months after Abboud reentered the fashion business to launch a new line called Jaz, which he plans to distribute in upscale department stores.

It is unclear what relationship Abboud is forging with L&T and whether the retail chain will be investing in the designer’s new business venture.

Abboud left his own eponymous company in 2005 when the label was bought by JA Apparel.

Posted by Blacks on 10:06 AM | Comments (0)

September 11, 2007

JA Apparel Sues Abboud Over Trademark Issues

JA Apparel is suing Joseph Abboud for using his name to launch his new Jaz men’s wear line. The group claims that designer’s promotion of Jaz violates its trademarks on the Joseph Abboud name.

Although Abboud signed a two-year non-compete with JA Apparel after he left the company in 2005, he claims that he has the right to use his own name. The group disagrees and is seeking a permanent injunction that would prevent the designer from using his name for marketing and promotional purposes.

Posted by Blacks on 09:07 AM | Comments (0)

JA Apparel Sues Abboud Over Trademark Issues

JA Apparel is suing Joseph Abboud for using his name to launch his new Jaz men’s wear line. The group claims that designer’s promotion of Jaz violates its trademarks on the Joseph Abboud name.

Although Abboud signed a two-year non-compete with JA Apparel after he left the company in 2005, he claims that he has the right to use his own name. The group disagrees and is seeking a permanent injunction that would prevent the designer from using his name for marketing and promotional purposes.

Posted by Blacks on 09:07 AM | Comments (0)

September 05, 2007

Valentino Names Facchinetti As Successor

Valentino Fashion Group has tapped former Gucci exec Alessandra Facchinetti as its new creative director. The news comes on the heels of the surprise announcement that Valentino Garavani is retiring from his namesake company in January.

Facchinetti won high accolades in her role as designer of women’s ready-to-wear at Gucci and will be given the title of creative director of women’s wear at Valentino.

Posted by Blacks on 06:03 PM | Comments (0)

Jimmy Choo Plans Long Strides

Jimmy Choo is stepping into new markets through retail partnerships in Russia, China, India, Malaysia, Turkey and South Africa. Over the next six months the luxury shoe brand will open eight new stores in these countries.

Choo is also conquering California with a new flagship in Beverley Hills and a store in San Diego’s Fashion Valley Mall.

The company said its aims to be a worldwide luxury fashion brand and not solely a shoemaker.

Posted by Blacks on 10:55 AM | Comments (0)

September 04, 2007

Valentino To Resign After 45 Years Of Fashion

Valentino Garavani is stepping down as a designer after 45 years of making his mark as one of the industry’s top talents.

Valentino will retire from his post in January 2008 after finishing his Paris ready-to-wear collection and haute couture line.

The designer’s exit leads to speculation over who will fill his shoes at the Valentino design house. Rumor has it that a younger, edgier designer may be tapped to take his place.

Posted by Blacks on 08:54 AM | Comments (0)

August 28, 2007

Frank Tell To Launch Signature Collection

Designer Frank Tell is launching his own signature collection which will debut at New York’ Pure Project on Sept. 6. The 20-year old is busy creating a 16-piece line that includes dresses with a 20s, 30s and 40s influence.

Tell is showing flowing chiffon in solid colors with an updated vintage feel. The line will wholesale from $175 to $450.

Posted by Blacks on 09:51 AM | Comments (0)

August 23, 2007

Liz Puts An End To Sigrid Olsen's Wholesale Business

Liz Claiborne will no longer wholesale its Sigrid Olsen line, choosing to keep it only in its retail channel. The move could be in preparation for a sale of the brand. Last month Liz Claiborne put Sigrid Olsen and 15 of its other brands on review, leading to speculation of a possible sell-off.

Sigrid Olsen was carried at over 180 department stores, generating a volume of $15 million. The line will stop shipping after the holiday season.

Posted by Blacks on 09:53 AM | Comments (0)

August 21, 2007

Badgley Mischka Launches Daytime Dress Label

Badgley Mischka is banking on its success in evening wear to launch a daytime dress label called Badgley Mischka Platinum Dresses. The new label is priced more moderately than their signature line and is due to arrive in department stores and specialty shops in January.

The colorful dresses will retail from $325 to $450 and come in nearly two dozen styles, shipped 10 months out of the year.

The label underscores the strong dress trend we’ve reported on for the last four seasons. Blacks continues to believe that dresses will play an important part of women’s wardrobes going into fall and beyond.

Posted by Blacks on 10:08 AM | Comments (0)

August 20, 2007

Karl Lagerfeld Accessories To Bow In Fall '08

Karl Lagerfeld has teamed with Accessory Network Group to design, manufacture and distribute a line of accessories. The Karl Lagerfeld line will feature handbags, luggage and leather goods in two collections: designer and contemporary. The designer collection will offer handbags starting at $1,000 and the contemporary line will start at $350. The bags will feature exotic skins, treated leather and special hardware.

The line is set to debut in fall of 2008 and will be distributed and major department stores and select specialty shops.

Posted by Blacks on 09:34 AM | Comments (0)

August 15, 2007

Erin Snow Swings Into New Sportswear Categories

High end skiwear brand Erin Snow is expanding into other sport categories such as tennis, sailing and golf.

The expansion is aimed at targeting active, well-heeled women year round with luxe sportswear such as sailing jackets and tennis dresses.

The new collections will initially be distributed to 20 specialty stores and some high-end department stores, with plans to widen distribution later on.

Posted by Blacks on 09:35 AM | Comments (0)

August 13, 2007

Ferragamo Loses Head Women's Wear Designer

Top Ferragamo women’s wear designer Graeme Black has left the company, according to recent reports. Graeme is expected to concentrate on his own self-named women’s wear brand which he launched in fall 2005.

Ferragamo has yet to comment on Black’s departure or name a likely successor.

Posted by Blacks on 10:27 AM | Comments (0)

August 06, 2007

Designer Abboud To Launch New Sportswear Line

Designer Jospeh Abboud is returning to the apparel business with the launch of a new sportswear line called Jaz. The line, which will launch in fall ’08, is Abboud’s first foray into fashion since leaving his eponymous company in 2005.

To produce the line, Abboud is acquiring Massachusetts shirt maker Alden Street Shirts and New York sportswear company Merrill Sharpe. Merrill Sharpe will be renamed Herringbone Sportswear Co.

Abboud has also lined up three licensees: Cardinal of Canada for outerwear, Jack Victor for tailored clothing and J.S. Blank & Co. for neckwear.

Posted by Blacks on 09:36 AM | Comments (0)

July 25, 2007

St. John Expanding Into Non-Apparel Categories

St. John is planning a brand expansion that will see its name on jewelry, handbags, eyewear, shoes and fragrance. After turning around its core apparel business, the Irvine, California, company is hoping to launch into new categories for holiday 2007 with the help of licensing partners.

Previously, St. John had seen an erosion in its traditional customer base and decided to return to the classic fitting and styles that made it popular over the last four decades. The company is now reaping the rewards of that decision, with improved sell-thru rates and a return of its traditional customer base.

Posted by Blacks on 09:58 AM | Comments (0)

July 24, 2007

Thom Brown Launches Women's Wear Line

Women will soon be able to wear Thom Brown’s shrunken jackets and shortened trousers. The quirky designer is launching a 25-piece collection of women’s clothing which will go on sale this fall at Barneys New York, Jeffrey New York, Bergdorf Goodman and Colette in Paris.

Prices will be similar to his men’s wear line with suits and jackets selling for around $4,000, sweaters for $1,500 and shirts for $400.

Posted by Blacks on 09:32 AM | Comments (0)

July 10, 2007

Limited Slips Out Of Apparel Business

Limited Brands moved out of the apparel business this week with the sale of a 75 percent stake in its Limited Stores division. The stake was sold to Sun Capital Partners Inc. in a noncash deal that will let the company focus on its intimate apparel and beauty products divisions.

The news comes shortly after the company sold its Express division to Golden Gate Capital for $602 million.

Limited Brands said that its apparel properties had shrunk to just 20 percent of its business and it sees more growth in its Victoria’s Secret and Bath & Body Works properties.

As for the Limited stores, Sun Capital Partners plans to reinvigorate the business, which it says has a strong customer base.

Posted by Blacks on 09:57 AM | Comments (0)

July 06, 2007

Ungaro Left With Vacant Women's Wear Post

Peter Dundas has stepped down from his role as women’s wear designer at Emanuel Ungaro. Dundas and the French design house could not agree on a direction for the company, according to reports. A successor has yet to be named.

Dundas did his first ready-to-wear collection for Ungaro in 2006 after leaving his post at Roberto Cavalli. Speculation is swirling over where the Norwegian-American designer will land next.

Posted by Blacks on 09:38 AM | Comments (0)

July 03, 2007

Dior Celebrates Its 60th With Couture

Christian Dior celebrated its 60th anniversary on Monday with a whimsical couture collection designed by John Galliano. The collection, which showed in Versailles, featured all the pomp and lavishness of the French court with bustles and flowing satin trains, fanciful hats and elaborate embroidery.

Galliano also paid homage to Dior’s 1947 New Look, which introduced a sleek new silhouette of slim waists and full skirts.

The show cycled through a wide range of influences and featured top models, fitting with Dior’s status and Galliano’s enduring imagination.

Posted by Blacks on 09:39 AM | Comments (0)

June 27, 2007

Liz Claiborne Dies At Age 78

Liz Claiborne died Tuesday at the age of 78, due to complications related to cancer. The women’s wear designer was known for her affordable career clothes.

Claiborne started her own company in 1976 and eventually turned it into a billion-dollar enterprise. She retired from Liz Claiborne Inc. in 1990, but it remains one of the largest fashion companies in the world, with a stable of well recognized brands including Juicy Couture and Lucky Brand jeans.

Posted by Blacks on 04:27 PM | Comments (0)

June 21, 2007

Cavalli Signs On With H&M For Capsule Collection

Cheap chic retailer Hennes and Mauritz (H&M) has lined up yet another celebrity fashion designer to do a capsule collection. This time it’s Roberto Cavalli who will be designing a 40-piece line for 200 H&M stores around the world.

The collection, which will go on sale Nov. 8, will include dresses and party wear for the holiday season.

H&M has previously collaborated with designers such as Stella McCartney, Viktor & Rolf, and most recently, Madonna.

Posted by Blacks on 09:38 AM | Comments (0)

June 18, 2007

Oscar Launches Low Priced Jewelry Line

Fresh from winning CDFA’s prize for women’s wear designer of the year, Oscar de la Renta is already working on expanding his empire into moderately priced accessories.

The O Oscar line of jewelry includes necklaces, bracelets and brooches ranging from $35 to $250. They will go on sale at big name retail chains such as Macy’s in August.

According to the designer, the line reflects a trend toward costume jewelry that allows women to make a statement without spending a lot of money.

Posted by Blacks on 09:43 AM | Comments (0)

June 15, 2007

Levi's Launches New Premium Collection In Europe

Levi’s Europe introduced a new collection of its upscale Levi’s Red line, which targets premium denim buyers with unusual cuts and stitching.

The new connection, which starts at around $370 a pair, draws on old advertising cartoons the company ran in the 1940s and 1950s.

Levi’s Red will sell in specialty stores throughout Europe. No plans have been announced for a launch in the U.S.

Posted by Blacks on 09:37 AM | Comments (0)

June 12, 2007

Tom Ford Has Plans To Go Global

Tom Ford may have just opened his first self-named flagship in New York but he’s already planning a global rollout that will see four more flagships erected in three years. The former Gucci designer plans to open stores in Milan, London, Los Angeles, and Hawaii in a move designed to make his brand the sign for luxury worldwide.

In addition to the directly-owned flagships, Ford has teamed with former Gucci executive Domenico de Sole to license franchises all over the world.

While Ford is going global, he has said he has no interest in pursuing women’s wear, and will stick for now to his men’s wear expertise.

Posted by Blacks on 08:51 AM | Comments (0)

June 07, 2007

J Brand Starts To Outgrow Its Jeans

J brand has plans to move beyond premium denim with development of a sportswear line inspired by vintage pieces. The line won’t debut until 2009 because it's being seen as an entirely different business, with a new team of designers.

In the meantime, the company plans to launch an even higher-end denim line called R. a C. by J Brand.

The new denim line will be priced 25 percent higher than regular J brand jeans due to its use of new fabrics and intricate details. R. a C. will be available this fall at Barney’s New York.

Posted by Blacks on 08:43 AM | Comments (0)

May 25, 2007

Chloé To Extend Into Jewelry, Watches

The luxury group that owns Chloé plans to keep growing the brand, adding jewelry and watches to its product line.

The brand has already produced a secondary line called See by Chloé, and made forays into sunglasses and leather goods.

Chloé is one of Compagnie Financière Richemont’s best performing brands, posting a 50 percent sales increase in the company's last fiscal year.

Posted by Blacks on 09:26 AM | Comments (0)

May 01, 2007

Fendi To Foray Into New Categories, Markets

Fendi is planning an expansion that will see new stores in international locations such as Turkey and Qatar, as well moves into the fragrance and fine jewelry business.

The brand, which boasts Karl Lagerfeld as its RTW designer, has been reporting strong numbers as of late, leading to expectations of annual growth of 20 percent to 25 percent over the next five years.

Fendi owner LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is even contemplating building a luxury hotel under the brand’s name.

Blacks’s Take: LVMH is making a smart move by capitalizing on Fendi’s strength as a lifestyle brand.

Posted by Blacks on 09:39 AM | Comments (0)

April 30, 2007

Shoppers Queue Up For Kate Moss Collection

U.K. retailer Topshop is preparing for shopping frenzy this week as it debuts Kate Moss’s new clothing line. The supermodel-crafted collection went on sale at Topshop’s Oxford Circus flagship location today, and will be rolled out to 21 additional countries within two weeks. In the U.S., it will be available at Barneys.

While Topshop and Swedish fast fashion chain H&M have introduced a number of celebrity capsule collections, Moss’s line is creating the most buzz, due to her status as a fashion icon.

Blacks’s Take: The Kate Moss collection is just another example of mass market demand for cutting edge fashion.

Posted by Blacks on 09:39 AM | Comments (0)

April 25, 2007

Coach Sees Its Earnings As In The Bag

Coach Inc. plans to take advantage of the strength of its accessories business by launching two new lifestyle brands.

The first brand, called Bleecker, is a lightweight collection of primarily leather goods, influenced by the company’s history. Bleecker will launch in October and the second brand, a line of sporty totes called Heritage Stripe, will debut next spring.

The news came as Coach reported a 38 percent increase in earnings for its third-quarter due to strong sales in its accessories business.

Blacks's Take: Coach has built a business around offering the classic, enduring handbag and the new collections will likely solidify this position.

Posted by Blacks on 09:20 AM | Comments (0)

April 11, 2007

Yohji Teams With Mikimoto For Jewelry Line

Yohji Yamamoto is establishing a new jewelry brand in conjunction with Japanese pearl specialist Mikimoto. The brand, whose name is yet to be revealed, will deliver its first collection during Paris fashion week in July. It will consist of pearls ranging in color from white to black, which happens to be the avant garde designer’s favored palette.

Blacks’s Take: Yamamoto likes to play with different categories, such as footwear, and it will be interesting to see his creativity flow into jewelry.

Posted by Blacks on 09:42 AM | Comments (0)

March 28, 2007

PVH To Open More Calvin Klein Stores

Phillips-Van Heusen’s investment in Calvin Klein has been a resounding success and the company plans to add more stores, it said this week.

The Calvin Klein brand has posted 14 percent top-line growth over the last three years, beating industry expectations.

PVH plans to open 5 to 10 more Calvin Klein stores in mall locations later this year to showcase the brand’s white label line.

Posted by Blacks on 10:57 AM | Comments (0)

March 23, 2007

Material Girl Launches New Line At H&M

Swedish retailer H&M rolled out its latest celebrity fashion capsule on Thursday, designed by Madonna. The M by Madonna line consists of 30 pieces of chic basics selected by the superstar.

Body suits, skinny black pants, nylon trench coats and cropped jackets were just some of the garments on display.

The collection attracted a large crowd at the New York H&M, but the scene relatively calm compared to the launch of Karl Lagerfeld’s capsule collection.

Posted by Blacks on 08:41 AM | Comments (0)

March 22, 2007

Burberry Gets Sporty With Exanded Icon Line

Burberry is expanding its Icons collection, adding luxury sportswear and eveningwear. The British brand is launching Burberry Sport this fall, offering glamorous ski jackets and snow boots among other luxe logo items.

The Icons collection, launched last year, was previously made up of ready-to-wear and accessories sporting signature Burberry details.

Posted by Blacks on 12:32 PM | Comments (0)

March 19, 2007

Brooks Brothers To Unveil Thom Browne Line

Brooks Brothers will unveil this week a new line of men’s and women’s wear designed by Thom Browne. The collection, called Black Fleece, will reflect Brooks Brothers’ tradition while giving it a Thom Borwne twist. The innovative designer, known for his short pants and sleek tailoring, said he has long appreciated the Brooks style and has tried to integrate it with his own.

The new collection will be at the high-end of Brooks’ usual price scale and will be sold at stores in the U.S., Europe and Asia.

Posted by Blacks on 09:38 AM | Comments (0)

March 13, 2007

CFDA Names Top Designer Nominees

The Council of Fashion Designers of America has revealed the short list of designers competing for the titles of women’s wear and men’s wear designers of the year, 2007.

The women’s wear finalists are Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta and Proenza Schouler designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough.

In men’s wear, Ralph Lauren, Daniel Silver, Calvin Klein’s Italo Zucchelli, and Duckie Brown's Steven Cox have taken the lead.

The winners will be named June 4 during a ceremony in New York.

Posted by Blacks on 10:16 AM | Comments (0)

February 28, 2007

Wealthy Shoppers Chose Classic American Brands

Coach, Polo Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein were the most popular brands among wealthy Americans, according to a survey by the Luxury Institute. Their desirability was rooted in the quality of their products, the Institute said, indicating that even the best-heeled shoppers are looking for value.

The survey queried 1,650 people with a household income of at least $150,000 a year.

Posted by Blacks on 11:06 AM | Comments (0)

February 23, 2007

Dsquared Steps Up Its Shoe Biz

Dsquared is stepping further into the footwear business through an agreement with Italy’s Pollini SpA to produce the brand’s fall/winter shoe collection.

The deal comes as Dsquared is getting ready to open its first boutique this fall.

The company hopes to triple its footwear business over the next few years from 18,000 pairs a season to 60,000 pairs a season.

Posted by Blacks on 09:36 AM | Comments (0)

February 22, 2007

Ungaro Names New Men's Wear Designer

Emanuel Ungaro has named Frank Boclet as its new men’s wear designer, in charge of expanding the company’s signature line. Boclet, who succeeds Jose Levy, will show his first collection in Paris in July.

The company has a second Ungaro Homme line through its collaboration with U.K. manufacturer Marchpole Holdings. The second line currently accounts for the lion’s share of the brand’s men’s wear business since the first line is still relatively small.

Posted by Blacks on 08:09 AM | Comments (0)

February 05, 2007

Coach Concentrates On Legacy Collection

Coach is moving even further into the luxury market by expanding its Legacy label of higher-priced handbags, footwear and accessories. In addition, the company plans to open two Coach Legacy stores this fall, in Manhattan and Los Angeles.

The move is an effort to keep in step with high-end European brands, such as Gucci and Prada.

Posted by Blacks on 10:19 AM | Comments (0)

January 30, 2007

Mouret To Unveil New Line At Couture Shows

Roland Mouret’s designs will be strutting down the catwalk once again when the designer launches a new high-end collection this July.

Mouret will be showing off his new “RM by the designer Roland Mouret” line at the couture shows in Paris.

The tailored collection is Mouret’s first fashion foray since he left his company and formed a new venture called 19 RM with Simon Fuller.

Posted by Blacks on 09:28 AM | Comments (0)

January 29, 2007

McCartney To Design Line For LeSportsac

British designer Stella McCartney has signed up to design a limited-edition line for accessories company LeSportsac. The collection, set to launch in spring 2008, will include totes, luggage and baby accessories.

The line will be available in department and specialty stores worldwide, as well as in McCartney’s boutiques in London and the U.S.

Posted by Blacks on 09:26 AM | Comments (0)

January 26, 2007

Calvin Klein Takes A Swing At Golf Apparel

Calvin Klein has signed a licensing deal with Windsong Sport to create a better-priced golf collection. CK will provide the designs and Windsong will manufacturer and distribute the line.

Calvin Klein Golf will offer men’s wear and women’s shorts, knits, outerwear and accessories in clean designs.

The line is set to launch next holiday season and will be distributed to 250 high-end golf stores.

Posted by Blacks on 09:07 AM | Comments (0)

January 11, 2007

CFDA Meets For First Time This Year

On Wednesday the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) met for the first time this year, led by new president Diane von Furstenberg. During the meeting Furstenberg named four designers to her cabinet, including Coach President Reed Krakoff, who will serve as vice president of the group. Furstenberg also gave a spot to Joseph Abboud, who she competed against for the president’s job. He will serve as chairman of the education committee.

In addition to naming a cabinet, the group also discussed guidelines for ensuring that healthier models are used in the industry.

Posted by Blacks on 09:50 AM | Comments (0)

January 08, 2007

Ralph Lauren Unveils Global Brand Division

Ralph Lauren is creating a division that will develop private-label lifestyle brands for department and specialty stores. The new group, called Global Brand Concepts, will have a hand in the design, manufacturing and marketing of women’s apparel, children’s clothes, home furnishings and accessories without the Polo label.

The division is aimed at boosting revenues at Ralph Lauren while giving partner stores the opportunity to offer something special from the designer. The stores will own the product, making them in charge of the inventory.

Posted by Blacks on 08:40 AM | Comments (0)

December 14, 2006

Lagerfeld To Launch Lifestyle "K" Collection

Karl Lagerfeld is getting ready to launch a new denim-centered lifestyle collection called K. The line will debut at the Bread & Butter show in Barcelona next month and will land in stores for the fall-winter season.

Initial distribution will be focused in Europe and Canada. The collection features five-pocket denim, knits, dresses and outerwear.

Posted by Blacks on 09:16 AM | Comments (0)

December 08, 2006

Baby Phat Director Plans High-End Collection

Kimora Lee Simmons, creative director of hip sportswear line Baby Phat, is introducing a new high-end contemporary brand called KLS Collection.

The line will include skirts, dresses, blouses and jeans in higher-quality fabrics and tailored fits, aimed at fashionable working women.

KLS will launch in for fall, with some items available to select specialty stores in the spring.

Posted by Blacks on 09:47 AM | Comments (0)

November 07, 2006

Giles Deacon Tries On A New Look

Yet another coveted designer is going mass market. This time it’s the U.K.’s Giles Deacon who’s decided to design a capsule collection for British retailer New Look.

The first 20-piece collection, called Gold, will be available this spring in 50 New Look outlets. Deacon has agreed to produce collections for the retailer four times a year, under a long-term agreement.

The collection contains denim, casual wear and evening looks as well as accessories.

Posted by Blacks on 07:45 AM | Comments (0)

October 31, 2006

Gap To Offer Roland Mouret Capsule Collection

Gap will soon be offering a capsule collection by Brutish designer Roland Mouret. The move, which will bring a collection of Mouret’s dresses to Gap stores in Europe and New York, is aimed at boosting business at the flagging retail chain.

Mass-market retailer H&M has done similar deals with success, such as partnerships with designers Karl Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney. It will be interesting to see if Gap extends the strategy to other designers and locations.

Posted by Blacks on 09:36 AM | Comments (0)

October 11, 2006

Chloé Taps Marni Director As Design Head

Chloé has selected former Marni director Paulo Melim Andersson as its new chief designer. He succeeds Phoebe Philo at the French design house, after serving seven years at Marni.

Chloé has had a string of well-known designers over the years, including Stella McCartney and Karl Lagerfeld.

Andersson starts work this week on Chloé’s pre-fall collection, which will debut in Paris in March.

Posted by Blacks on 09:09 AM | Comments (0)

October 03, 2006

Miyake Designer To Create His Own Label

Issey Miyake designer Naoki Takizawa is showing his last collection under the Miyake name in Paris this week.

Takizawa, who has led both men’s and women’s wear at Miyake for several years, is preparing to create his own label at the Japanese fashion house.

The company is selecting a new lead designer in upcoming weeks, and is expected to go with someone from its studio.

Posted by Blacks on 09:21 AM | Comments (0)

September 28, 2006

Report: Chloe Taps Marni Talent As New Designer

Chloe has finally selected a replacement for Phoebe Philo, according to WWD.

The French fashion house has selected Marni’s Paolo Melin Anderson to be its next design head, according to the report. Chloe has yet to make a formal announcement on the decision, however.

Philo left her coveted spot at Chloe in January, saying she wanted to spend more time with her family.

Posted by Blacks on 09:29 AM | Comments (0)

September 27, 2006

Theory Builds New Bridge Line

Link Theory Holdings Ltd. is launching a new women’s bridge line for spring 2007 called Premise.

The line includes tailored suits, shirts and pencil skirts and items will retail for around $100 to $500.

Big name retailers such as Saks, Nordstrom’s, and Bloomingdale’s have reportedly put in orders, along with better specialty stores.

Posted by Blacks on 08:53 AM | Comments (0)

September 20, 2006

Kate Moss To Design For Topshop

Kate Moss has signed a long-term contract to design an exclusive collection for U.K. retailer Topshop.

The supermodel’s line will be available in Topshop stores and on the Web in spring 2007.

The deal is seen as a coup for both Moss, who was just last year embroiled in a drugs scandal, and the retailer. Moss’s status as a fashion icon is sure to make her designs must-have items.

Topshop said that the deal aims to turn the model’s line into a global brand.

Posted by Blacks on 09:42 AM | Comments (0)

September 12, 2006

Nina Ricci Scoops Up Theyskens

Nina Ricci confirmed that it has hired former Rochas designer Olivier Theyskens as its new artistic director. Theyskens, 29, will begin at his new post on Nov. 1 and will show his first collection for Ricci at Paris Fashion week in March.

Theyskens found himself out of job in July when Rochas shuttered its doors, despite widespread praise for his work. It wasn’t long before Ricci came calling, with the idea of expanding the French brand under a new design head.

Ricci plans to add new flagships and in-store shops, as well as enter new categories.

Posted by Blacks on 10:09 AM | Comments (0)

September 08, 2006

Browne To Design Collection For Brooks Bros.

Brooks Bros. has tapped designer Thom Browne to create a capsule collection of men’s and women’s apparel and accessories for fall 2007, according to a report out Friday.

Browne won this year’s Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Menswear Designer of the Year award. His first RTW collection for Brooks Bros. will offer around 50 pieces, and will be sold at the company’s flagship locations.

The collaboration could be the first in a string of relationships Brooks Bros. forges with guest designers under the capsule concept, WWD reported.

Posted by Blacks on 09:35 AM | Comments (0)

August 28, 2006

True Religion Snags Levi's Designer

True Religion has named former Levi Strauss & Co. designer Zihaad Wells as its new Design Director.

Wells, who is just 31, is known for his innovation and ability to stay on top of emerging trends. His appointment comes at a time when the premium denim brand is growing rapidly.

True Religion reported a nearly 16% jump in earnings for the second quarter of 2006, bringing in $4.9 million.

Posted by Blacks on 09:03 AM | Comments (0)

August 25, 2006

Nilsson Leaves Nina Ricci

Nina Ricci designer Lars Nilsson has left the company to pursue other opportunities.

Insiders speculate that former Rochas designer Olivier Theyskens could be tapped to take his place. Theyskens, who was recently named International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, found himself suddenly out of a job last month when Rochas folded.

Nina Ricci will not be showing at Paris fashion week in the wake of Nilsson’s exit, but will hold private showings of its spring/summer ’07 collection to buyers and press, according to reports.

Posted by Blacks on 10:24 AM | Comments (0)

August 24, 2006

Kohl's Woos Wang In Multiyear Deal

Vera Wang has agreed to design a fashion and lifestyle collection for Kohl’s called “Very Vera by Vera Wang.”

The multiyear deal includes women’s apparel, intimate apparel, accessories, footwear, jewelry and linens. Kohl’s will begin carrying the brand online and in its over 900 department stores at the beginning of next year.

Wang is just the latest in a string of high-end designers who have been wooed by mid-tier retailers who want to gain more pulling power by offering fashion lines.

The partnership could generate up to $500 million over the next few years, according to some reports.

Posted by Blacks on 09:57 AM | Comments (0)

August 23, 2006

Brooks Brothers Predicts Sales Boom

Brooks Brothers is predicting $1 billion in sales over the next two years, according to DNR.

The U.S. men’s clothier is riding high after a change in direction that took it back to its traditional, tailored look.

The label has been gaining steam under the ownership of Retail Brand Alliance, led by Italian billionaire Claudio Del Vecchio.

Del Vecchio was always a fan of Brooks Brothers’ classical styling and was dismayed when the label moved into contemporary sportswear in the 1990s. Now that he has returned the company to its roots, the effort appears to be paying off.

Posted by Blacks on 12:39 PM | Comments (0)

August 11, 2006

Badgley Mischka Moves Into Sportswear

Badgley Mischka will be debuting its first bridge sportswear collection next month, targeting the professional urban customer.

The brand may be known for its dresses, but designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka have experience in the sportswear realm and aim to expand the label into a lifestyle brand.

Their 25-piece collection includes pants, skirts, knits, jackets and denim and will be available in some 300 stores, including Saks and Neiman Marcus.

Posted by Blacks on 10:04 AM | Comments (0)

August 08, 2006

Longchamp Debuts RTW Line

Handbag maker Longchamp has created a 10 piece ready-to-wear line which is already on sale at its New York SoHo store and will debut in France next month.

The fall line includes coats, sweaters and a dress made of two Longchamp scarves. The pieces are designed to complement the company’s handbags, with chic styling and familiar details.

For spring ’07, the line and its distribution will be expanded. Shoes will be added in the fall of next year.

Posted by Blacks on 10:36 AM | Comments (0)

July 18, 2006

Rochas's Fashion House To Fold

Rochas owner Proctor & Gamble is shutting down the French fashion house, according to a report in WWD.

P&G will continue to sell fragrances under the Rochas name, but has decided that fashion is too far out of its core business. The move comes despite industry acclaim for the fashion house; Rochas designer Olivier Theyskens was named International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America earlier this year.

The brand’s fall/winter RTW collections will continue to ship, according to WWD.

Posted by Blacks on 11:43 AM | Comments (1)

Report: St. John Designer To Resign

St. John Creative Director Tim Gardner will reportedly leave the company at the end of the month.

Speculation is that Gardner has come under pressure after his efforts to redesign the company’s collection for a younger audience resulted in slowed sales. At present, there doesn’t appear to be anyone in line to take his place.

Gardner joined St. John last year and was named creative director after head designer Marie Gray stepped down in August.

Posted by Blacks on 10:10 AM | Comments (0)

July 07, 2006

Ahrendts Plans Design, Retail Changes At Burberry

New Burberry CEO Angela Ahrendts has some bold plans for the company, starting with its trademark plaid.

The American executive wants to play down the plaid by adding other signature designs in an effort to counteract overexposure. An equestrian knight and the signature of company founder Thomas Burberry may be added to the company’s design scheme.

Ahrendts, who has been on the job for less than a week, also has big plans for the company’s retail structure. She hopes to open more independent stores in the U.S., rather than rely on department stores, and is considering selling through specialty stores.

The new chief executive is also making a push to sell more accessories, shoes and leather handbags.

Posted by Blacks on 09:07 AM | Comments (0)

June 20, 2006

Burberry's Bravo Awarded CBE

Outgoing Burberry CEO Rose Marie Bravo will be named a Commander of the British Empire (CBE) on Thursday for her services to the British fashion and retailing industry.

At the end if this month Bravo will cede her position to Burberry Vice Chairman Angela Ahrendts.

The CBE will be given by Prince Charles to correspond with the 150th anniversary of Burberry.

The iconic brand and its trademark trenches have become synonymous with British style, and to celebrate its long history, the company is releasing a collection of signature items in an “Icons” collection this year.

Posted by Blacks on 12:12 PM | Comments (0)

June 19, 2006

Slimane Drives Hard Bargain At Dior

Christian Dior could be forced to part ways with menswear designer Hedi Slimane.

Slimane’s contract is due to expire next month and the designer is driving a hard bargain to renew it, WWD reported Monday.

Although negotiations are still ongoing, Dior is quietly putting together a backup plan, according to the daily.

The French designer, who gained fame by popularizing the slim silhouette in menswear, began his career with Dior in 2000 after working at Yves Saint Laurent.

Posted by Blacks on 09:24 AM | Comments (0)

June 16, 2006

Future Uncertain For Paco Rabanne

Paco Rabanne appears to be going through some serious restructuring, and has reportedly told retailers that it won’t be shipping its fall/winter collection.

The Paris-based brand, owned by Spain’s Puig Group, is rumored to be closing and employees have been told to look for other jobs. However, it is unclear whether the brand will be completely shutdown, or if Puig has other plans.

Casting another uncertainty, Paco Rabanne house designer Patrick Robinson has reportedly returned home to New York.

Posted by Blacks on 09:36 AM | Comments (0)

June 15, 2006

Jones Apparel Tries To Woo Wang

Jones Apparel Group is reportedly looking to make a deal with Vera Wang to produce a sportswear label.

Jones, which owns a number of big-name retail brands, including Barneys New York, Anne Klein and Nine West, is currently up for sale and has interest from a number of private equity groups.

Some are speculating that the group is looking to the Wang deal to make its “For Sale” sign more attractive. But the designer, famed for her bridal gowns, is famous for lengthy negotiations, according to WWD.

Posted by Blacks on 12:11 PM | Comments (0)

June 09, 2006

Hilfiger Ends Lagerfeld's Contemporary Line

Tommy Hilfiger Corp. has decided to discontinue Karl Lagerfeld’s contemporary sportswear line, following slumping sales.

The signature line was launched in Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman with considerable fanfare, and its short life span comes as a bit of a surprise given Lagerfeld’s usual success.

Hilfiger bought the rights to the Lagerfeld name in January 2005, but earlier this year Hilfiger was purchased by private equity group Apax Partners. Apax has been reorganizing Hilfiger’s business, and has decided to drop Lagerfeld’s New York-based contemporary line after the fall season and consolidate the Lagerfeld business in Paris.

Posted by Blacks on 10:13 AM | Comments (0)

June 07, 2006

CFDA Names Designers Of The Year

Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa was named Womenswear Designer of the Year at the CFDA awards in New York over the weekend, while Thom Browne was named Menswear Designer of the Year.

Costa beat out Marc Jacobs, and Proenza Schouler's Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough to take the womenswear prize.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America also awarded Olivier Theyskens from Rochas as International Designer of the Year and Tom Binns as top accessories designer.

The celebrity-clad ceremony is held each year to honor established and up-and-coming fashion talent.

Posted by Blacks on 10:02 AM | Comments (0)

June 05, 2006

Diesel Revs Up Growth Plans

Diesel is laying plans to rev up its premium offerings and double its U.S. sales in the next five years.

The Italian brand also wants to expand its Denim Gallery collection and accessories, all while keeping an exclusive image.

Diesel owner Renzo Rosso revealed the company’s growth strategy in a recent interview with WWD.

It will be interesting to see if Diesel can hit aggressive growth targets and maintain a niche standing.

Posted by Blacks on 10:55 AM | Comments (0)

June 02, 2006

Galliano Prepares Lower-Cost Line

John Galliano’s new diffusion line will be available in July, offering fashionistas the chance to get their hands on the famed designer’s threads for 40 percent less than they would pay for his signature line.

The much-anticipated collection will comprise of 300 pieces, including sportswear, denim, knits and more tailored looks.

The diffusion line is being distributed by Galliano licensing partner IT Holdings, and will be available in 500 locations worldwide.

There’s even talks of freestanding boutiques to show off the line, but so far nothing is confirmed.

Posted by Blacks on 09:54 AM | Comments (0)

May 26, 2006

Armani To Show In London, Not Milan

Adding another line to London’s lengthy fashion credentials, Giorgio Armani has decided to show his spring 2007 Emporio Armani collection in London this September instead of Milan.

The Italian designer said the British capital has become one the most cosmopolitan and influential fashion cities in the world.

Armani will also launch his new RED capsule collection in London. The new collection is part of a charity initiative conceived by rocker Bono and Bobby Shriver.

Posted by Blacks on 09:53 AM | Comments (0)

May 25, 2006

Yohji Packs Deal With Luggage Maker

Yohji Yamamoto is teaming up with Italian luggage maker Mandarina Duck to design a line of co-branded bags, cases and accessories. The collection, dubbed Y’s Mandarina, will appear for the spring/summer 2007 season.

The Japanese designer has a track record of successful collaborations, such as his Y-3 sportswear and shoe designs for Adidas.

Posted by Blacks on 10:31 AM | Comments (0)

May 24, 2006

Lauren Fades Out Polo Jeans

Polo Ralph Lauren is discontinuing Polo Jeans in the U.S., opting instead to expand the premium denim available in its Polo Ralph Lauren and Lauren lines.

After 2007, U.S. Polo Jeans fans will have to get their fix abroad, where the line will still be available.

Polo Ralph Lauren recently bought back the license for Polo Jeans from Jones Apparel Group for $355 million. The purchase was aimed at allowing the company to build out its denim offerings without contractual restrictions.

Posted by Blacks on 08:56 AM | Comments (0)

May 22, 2006

Varvatos Continues Converse Play

U.S. designer John Varvatos is expanding his collaboration with Converse and will launch a line of trainers to be sold in Barneys, Saks and Bloomindale’s this fall.

Building on the success of the Limited Edition series Varvatos created for the iconic sneaker brand, the new line will include military, rock n’ roll and street influences.

Posted by Blacks on 08:57 AM | Comments (0)

May 16, 2006

Design Duo Appointed To Helmut Lang

Theory has named Habitual founders Nicole and Michael Colovos as the new joint creative directors of Helmut Lang.

The move, announced Monday, is being seen as evidence that Theory wants to transform Helmut Lang into a more contemporary brand.

Although the couple found success with their chic Habitual jeans line, many are wondering if they will do as well under the classic mantle of Lang, which has long been known for its innovative, high-end collections.

Posted by Blacks on 09:18 AM | Comments (0)

May 01, 2006

Rumors Swirl Around Cavalli Sale

Italian fashion house Roberto Cavalli is reportedly being courted by private equity funds, according to a report out Monday.

Private equity groups have taken a keen interest in the fashion business lately, and have set their sights on companies such as Jones Apparel Group and Tommy Hilfiger.

Cavalli has not confirmed whether or not an equity group might scoop it up, but valuations of the brand are estimated at over $1 billion.

Posted by Blacks on 07:47 AM | Comments (0)

April 26, 2006

Coach Considers Jewelry, Perfume

Leather goods and accessories maker Coach Inc. is reportedly planning a foray into jewelry and perfume.

The U.S. company, best known for its “C”-clad handbags and wallets, would be following in the footsteps of brands such as Gucci, which have seen high demand in the categories.

Coach has dabbled in jewelry with leather bracelets but has yet to introduce a complete line.

Fragrance has proved a successful category for a number of luxury vendors and presents another good opportunity for Coach.

Posted by Blacks on 09:07 AM | Comments (0)

April 25, 2006

Ford, Armani Face Off In Milan

Former Gucci designer Tom Ford is opening a menswear showroom in Milan, directly across from the headquarters of Giorgio Armani.

The 6,000 square foot showroom is located at via Borgonuova 24 and is set to open in January. Ford, who left Gucci in 2003, has been busy working on projects such as signature fragrance and eyewear collections, but it’s his upcoming menswear line that has created the most anticipation among fashionistas.

Ford has said that Milan is one of his favorite fashion capitals and it was a natural fit for his new collection.

Posted by Blacks on 08:52 AM | Comments (0)

April 24, 2006

Bottega Veneta Rated Top Luxury Brand

Bottega Veneta has been rated the most prestigious luxury brand in a survey of wealthy consumers, beating out such well-heeled contenders as Prada, Chanel and Hermès.

Although the Italian company is not as well recognized as luxury rivals such as Armani, Bottega was rated the highest in exclusivity, quality and uniqueness among consumers familiar with the name.

The brand’s performance bodes well for the future of the company, according to the Luxury Institute, which conducted the survey. The Luxury Institute surveyed over 500 U.S. households with an income of at least $200,000 a year.

Posted by Blacks on 12:46 PM | Comments (0)

April 21, 2006

Liz Claiborne Bets On Kate Spade

Liz Claiborne is reportedly looking to add Kate Spade to its label lineup. Spade put itself on the block last year after its majority investor, Neiman Marcus, was purchased by Texas Pacific.

The brand offers accessories and ready-to-wear designed by Kate Spade and her husband Andy. If Liz Claiborne does acquire the label, the founding couple is expected to stay onboard in a design capacity.

Liz already owns big-name brands Juicy Couture and Lucky Jeans, among others.

Posted by Blacks on 08:55 AM | Comments (0)

April 18, 2006

Mizrahi To Launch Men's Line

Fashion divo Isaac Mizrahi is getting ready to launch a men’s wear line at Bergdorf Goodman, where he already has a high-end women’s label.

Unlike some designers, Mizrahi is not shy about tapping into each end of the market, as he also designs mass-market collections for retail giant Target.

If that were not enough, Mizrahi is reportedly working on launching a mid-range accessories brand, including shoes. It will be interesting to see if the designer’s "everything for everyone" strategy pays off, or if his blanket availability leads to a loss of caché.

Posted by Blacks on 09:31 AM | Comments (0)

April 12, 2006

Roland Mouret To License Archive

Roland Mouret Design is offering up a 10-year license of its sample and pattern archive, it said this week. The archive includes 12 collections, from spring/summer 2002 to the upcoming fall/winter 2007 line.

The London-based atelier has designed dresses worn by actresses Nicole Kidman, Scarlett Johansson and Demi Moore, making it a red carpet favorite.

With the licensing deal on the table, the company reportedly has no plans to launch new collections.

Posted by Blacks on 05:17 AM | Comments (0)

April 03, 2006

Bill Blass Adds Two New Footwear Lines

Women’s footwear designer and distributor The Fashion House has entered an extended licensing agreement with Bill Blass to manufacture and distribute two new lines of footwear under the Bill Blass name.

The Fashion House will design collections under the Bill Blass Collection and Blassport names. Bill Blass Collection is a bridge line while Bassport is aimed at younger women with active lifestyles. Both collections will debut in 2007.

The Fashion House has already launched the high-end Bill Blass Couture and the better-priced Blass Bill Blass lines.

Posted by Blacks on 07:26 AM | Comments (0)

April 02, 2006

Armani To Design Sneaker Line

Make room in your shoe rack, fashionistas. Armani has reportedly signed a deal with Japanese sneaker brand Mizuno to create a line of designer footwear.

With the deal, Armani is following in the footsteps of fashion forward designers such as Yohji Yamamoto and Jil Sander, who have also teamed up with athletic brands to produce a line of sneaks.

Armani is expected to show off the line in Milan this June, with footwear in colors such as navy and beige.

Posted by Blacks on 09:33 AM | Comments (0)

March 30, 2006

Low-Priced Prada Could Hit H&M

First Lagerfeld, then Stella, now Prada? Rumor has it that Miuccia Prada could be the next luxury brand to design a line for mass-market retailer H&M.

Sweden’s H&M, which just reported a 16% profit increase for the first quarter of this year, has seen door-breaking success through collaborations with big-name designers.

While Prada and H&M have yet to confirm a deal, Prada has signaled that it is not opposed to the partnership. Considering the frenzy that occurred over Stella McCartney’s recent low-priced line, mass market Prada would be sure to cause a stir.

Posted by Blacks on 09:07 AM | Comments (0)

March 27, 2006

Report: Ford Stepping Into Footwear

Apparently, it isn’t enough for Tom Ford to have his hand in a number of ventures, he has to put a foot in too – footwear that is.

The famed designer is reportedly working with ex-Gucci consultant Max Verre on his own footwear line. If true, the project will add to Ford’s growing list of ventures spanning perfume, eyewear and apparel.

Since departing from Gucci in 2004, Ford has become his own mega brand, and there appears to be no telling what he has up his sleeve next.

Posted by Blacks on 09:18 AM | Comments (0)

March 23, 2006

Gucci Spreads Around The Globe

Gucci has set its sights on expansion with plans to open up new flagships in Hong Kong and Tokyo. The Hong Kong store is slated to open in October, with the Tokyo location soon to follow.

The Italian luxury brand has also identified Eastern Europe as a growing market and plans to open a store in the Ukrainian capital of Kiev in September.

Gucci, which is owned by French retail group PPR, has been posting strong sales in recent quarters, leading to further expansion of the brand.

Posted by Blacks on 09:33 AM | Comments (0)

March 20, 2006

Adidas Extends McCartney Collaboration

Shoe giant Adidas has reportedly extended its contract with designer Stella McCartney until 2010.

The British designer has been working with Adidas over the last year, producing three lines of athletic wear. The latest collection, for Spring ’06, carries the theme of Tennis, Running, Gym and Swim.

The collaboration is apparently a hit, since the German company has decided to keep McCartney onboard for four more years.

Posted by Blacks on 08:42 AM | Comments (0)

March 19, 2006

Famed Designer Oleg Cassini Passes Away

Famed New York fashion designer Oleg Cassini died on Friday, leaving a legacy of nearly seven decades of inspired design.

Cassini, who was known for dressing Jacqueline Kennedy and numerous Hollywood stars, also sought to bring beautiful, affordable clothes to the average women through his ready-to-wear lines.

He was credited for bringing the A-line dress and pillbox hat en vogue – a la Jackie – as well as introducing the Nehru jacket to America.

He died at the age of 92 on Long Island, where he had a home.

Posted by Blacks on 09:57 AM | Comments (0)

March 17, 2006

Prada Makes Deal To Sell Helmut Lang

Prada has agreed to sell its Helmut Lang brand to Link Theory Holdings, the Italian luxury group confirmed Friday.

Link, a Japanese firm, has purchased the Helmut Lang trademark name for an undisclosed sum.

The deal comes just a few weeks after Prada agreed to sell its Jil Sander brand to private equity firm Capital Change Partners.

The fashion house has said previously that it wants to concentrate on building its Prada and Miu Miu lines.

Posted by Blacks on 07:48 AM | Comments (0)

March 08, 2006

Polo Scores Points At Wimbledon

Polo Ralph Lauren scored a marketing point this week by sealing a deal with the All England Club to design and outfit all on-court Wimbledon officials.

By becoming the official outfitter for the renowned tennis club, Polo hopes to catch the attention of millions of sporting fans.

The brand is releasing a Polo Ralph Lauren Wimbledon collection to be sold at select retail outlets, as well as online.

The partnership, which begins at this year’s Championship tournament, runs through 2010.

Posted by Blacks on 09:04 AM | Comments (0)

March 01, 2006

Calvin Klein Readies Better Sportswear Line

Calvin Klein’s better womenswear will be returning to department stores this fall. The iconic American brand is teaming with apparel marketer Kellwood Co. to design and produce a better sportswear line.

Kellwood bought out G.A.V.’s interest in the better sportswear business in September of last year with the intention of growing the segment.

While many better vendors are going down market – through deals with retailers such as Target and H&M – Calvin Klein appears to be making the right choice in boosting its up-market positioning, where there is still substantial growth to be had.

Posted by Blacks on 10:55 AM | Comments (0)

February 28, 2006

Ford To Open His Own Manhattan Store

Tom Ford announced that he is opening his own menswear store in Manhattan, ending months of speculation over the superstar designer’s future fashion plans. The store, set to open in November, will be the only place where customers can buy his signature men’s line. The three-story shop will be located at Madison Ave. and 70th St.

As we reported yesterday, the line is being made in collaboration with Italian luxury group Ermenegildo Zegna.

Whether by plan or happenstance, Ford seems to have pulled off a brilliant PR coup by keeping news of the store under wraps while he tested his market with a new eyewear and fragrance line. Both have done very well, signaling that the time was right for a Tom Ford clothing line.

The former Gucci designer is also riding the wave of publicity caused by his “naked cover” design for Vanity Fair, which features Ford showing some chest hair next to actresses Scarlett Johansson and Keira Knightly, both of which are nude.

Posted by Blacks on 08:11 AM | Comments (0)

February 27, 2006

Report: Ford In Manufacturing Deal With Zegna

Tom Ford has reportedly entered a deal with Ermenegildo Zegna to manufacture his signature collection.

The possible agreement, reported in WWD, would end months of scuttlebutt over the former Gucci designer’s plans.

Ford recently unveiled an eyewear and fragrance collection but whether or not he would return to clothing, and to what extent, remained unclear.

Posted by Blacks on 08:03 AM | Comments (0)

February 23, 2006

Prada Agrees To Sell Jil Sander

Italian fashion house Prada is selling its Jil Sander brand to private equity firm Capital Change Partners.

Announcement of the sale comes just days after the latest Jil Sander line was unveiled at Milan’s fashion week, to warm reviews. The Prada group said it was cutting the brand loose so it could concentrate on its Prada and Miu Miu lines.

The value of the deal was not disclosed, but Jil Sander is set to breakeven on an operating basis this year.

Posted by Blacks on 08:41 AM | Comments (0)

Coach Seals Deal For Cashmere

We knew that cashmere was the hot fiber right now, and Coach apparently knows it too. The luxury leather and accessories brand is teaming with cashmere maker Lutz & Patmos to release a line of women’s knitwear made of cashmere and wool.

The initial collection will offer at least 6 pieces, some of which will be detailed in leather and fur. It’s slated to arrive in Coach’s flagship stores by October.

New York-based Lutz & Patmos makes all of its cashmere in Italy and sells it in exclusive stores worldwide.

Posted by Blacks on 08:26 AM | Comments (0)

February 20, 2006

Consumers Covet Gucci, Armani

Consumers around the world covet Gucci and Armani above all other brands, according to a new survey.

One-third of the 21,000 consumers surveyed by ACNielsen said they would buy the Italian labels if money wasn’t an issue.

Gucci and Armani are favored for their image as much as their style. The brands were especially popular among respondents in emerging markets like India, Russia and China.

Versace came in third in the poll, and Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior and Ralph Lauren also ranked high.

Posted by Blacks on 05:16 PM | Comments (0)

February 17, 2006

Brands Line Up In Bid For Wang

St. John apparently has some competition in its bid for designer Vera Wang. Liz Claiborne and Kohl’s have reportedly entered the fray, giving Wang three very different opportunities to expand her business.

Liz executives are hoping that Wang will allow their brand to move into higher-end product, while Kohl’s is contemplating a mass-market line by the renowned designer, according to reports.

For St. John, the addition of Wang would allow it to continue to update its image, which has grown somewhat stodgy in recent years. The classic American brand recently selected actress Angelina Jolie as its advertising face as part of its renewal efforts.

Posted by Blacks on 08:49 AM | Comments (0)

February 16, 2006

Chanel Plans First Store In Russia

French luxury house Chanel is reportedly opening its first standalone store in Russia. Although the exact location has yet to be decided, the store is scheduled to open this summer in Moscow.

Chanel is just one of a handful of high-end brands looking to sink their teeth into up-and-coming luxury markets. Russians have already become luxury addicts and are expected to account for 7% of luxury goods sales by 2009.

Posted by Blacks on 10:47 AM | Comments (0)

February 05, 2006

Report: St. John Woos Wang

St. John is courting Vera Wang to be its new creative director, WWD reported this weekend.

Although the California-based fashion house denied the rumor, saying it is in full support of its current creative head Tim Gardner, speculation remains due to a comment made last year by St. John CEO Richard Cohen that the brand is looking for a new designer.

Wang’s placement as creative director would certainly add more pizzazz to the brand as it continues to fight off its staid image. St. John recently selected actress Angelina Jolie for an upcoming series of advertising campaigns as part of its effort to reinvigorate the brand.

Posted by Blacks on 08:52 AM | Comments (0)

February 03, 2006

New Lagerfeld Lines To Play On iTunes

Leave it to Karl Lagerfeld to create hype around his new eponymous collection, while appearing cool and hip at the same time. The 67-year old designer has reached a deal with Apple Computers to have the audio and visuals of the collection’s debut runway show available for free download on iTunes.

The new collection will be shown Feb. 10 in New York, on the last day of Fashion Week, and a podcast of the show will be available for download later that day.

The collection actually consist of two lines, Karl Lagerfeld and Lagerfeld Collection. The self-named line is being designed in collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger in New York, while the Collection line is being created by Lagerfeld in his home city of Paris. Both lines are priced significantly lower than Lagerfeld’s creations for Chanel and Fendi.

Posted by Blacks on 08:44 AM | Comments (0)

February 01, 2006

Stella Puts Accent On Accessories

British designer Stella McCartney is launching a complete accessories line for Spring/Summer ’06.

McCartney, who is known for the comfortable elegance of her designs, such as sheer tunics and skinny pants, says she plans to use natural fabrics rather than rely on leather for bags and shoes.

Expect funky or ethnic-inspired jewelry, canvas shoes and silky bags. The line will be sold at Stella stores in LA, New York and London, as well as in some high-end department stores.

Posted by Blacks on 08:32 AM | Comments (0)

January 25, 2006

Ferragamo Sales, Reputation Climb

Italian luxury group Salvatore Ferragamo reported a 12% sales surge for 2005 this week. The group cited strong demand in Asia and the U.S. and predicted continued strong growth in 2006.

Perhaps not surprisingly, the solid results were released the same week that a poll of wealthy consumers voted Ferragamo the luxury brand that delivers the best customer experience.

The poll rated 16 luxury brands on elements such as price-worthiness, shopping experience and referral.

Coach came in as the strongest mass-market luxury brand, while Louis Vuitton was favored by women and Hermes got the top notch from wealthy consumers over 50.

Posted by Blacks on 08:31 AM | Comments (0)

January 23, 2006

Polo Zips Back Into Its Denim Business

Polo Ralph Lauren is buying back its U.S. jeans business from Jones Apparel Group through a settlement of $355 million.

The two companies had been disputing over licensing of the denim business and had entered litigation in 2003. Jones said that the license put restrictions on what it could sell.

Through the settlement, Polo hopes to reclaim control of its global jeans market. It already has healthy demand in Europe and Asia and said it hopes to grow the business even further in the U.S.

Posted by Blacks on 08:20 AM | Comments (0)

January 06, 2006

Update - Philo Confirms Resignation

Phoebe Philo confirmed her resignation as creative director at French fashion house Chloe, saying she wanted to spend more time with her new baby.

Chloe's existing design team is expected to put together the brand's upcoming Autumn/Winter show.

Although rumors are circulating that Roland Mouret could be tapped to take her place, they are so far unconfirmed. Mouret left his own company two months ago.

Posted by Blacks on 11:10 AM | Comments (0)

January 05, 2006

Chloe Designer To Step Down

Chloe designer Phoebe Philo is due to announce that she is quitting the company for personal reasons, according to insider reports.

Philo made her mark with the creation of must-have dresses and bags that became Chloe signature pieces. She took the post of creative director at the French design house in 2001 at the age of 27, replacing former Chloe designer and gal pal Stella McCartney.

Although it is still too early to tell who will replace her as design guru at the chic brand, chances are her unique stylings will be missed.

Posted by Blacks on 11:07 AM | Comments (0)

January 04, 2006

Luxury Labels Battle Chinese Piracy

Luxury brands Burberry, Louis Vuitton and Gucci have won a suit against a Chinese mall owner who failed to stop vendors from selling pirated goods.

The victory is being considered a small step toward curbing the billions of dollars in piracy costs facing luxury brands each year.

Although the big name brands are eager to tap into China’s huge consumer market, they also face the challenge of competing against knockoffs of their very own goods. Verdicts like the one reached against the mall owner serve to set a precedent, allowing them to go after other local pirates.

Posted by Blacks on 11:48 AM | Comments (0)

January 02, 2006

Chanel Takes Off In Asia

Chanel appears ready to literally launch its 2006 Spring/Summer line by introducing it at a China Airlines aircraft maintenance site.

The upcoming show, targeting the Chinese, Hong Kong and Taiwanese markets, will reportedly be second in scale only to its Paris show.

The Asian market is big business for luxury brands as consumers in the region are showing an increasing demand for anything with a designer label.

Chanel’s regional show will take place in Taiwan January 13th.

Posted by Blacks on 09:12 AM | Comments (0)

December 15, 2005

P&G Likes The Smell Of D&G

Proctor & Gamble seems to like the scent of Dolce & Gabbana’s business. The beauty product giant has signed a licensing agreement for D&G’s existing fragrance portfolio and plans to design and develop a new product line with the Italian luxury brand.

The new line is slated to launch globally in July 2006.

D&G is one of a handful of luxury apparel designers seeing success in the beauty products market. Even Tom Ford has gotten into the game with his own line, making it the ‘in’ expansion market.

Posted by Blacks on 12:37 PM | Comments (0)

December 13, 2005

Ungaro Has Designs On Dundas

Emanuel Ungaro is reportedly looking to current Robert Cavalli designer Peter Dundas to lead the luxury brand’s design team.

Ungaro is looking for a replacement for Vincent Darre, and for someone who can return the brand to its couture roots. Dundas has previously worked for Christian Lacroix and Jean Paul Gaultier and is believed to be a strong candidate for the job.

The French design house is still going through a transition after being given up by its founder last year and sold to Silicon Valley tycoon Asim Abdullah.

Posted by Blacks on 01:14 PM | Comments (0)

December 12, 2005

Louis Vuitton Hits Hong Kong

Louis Vuitton has raised the curtain on a new flagship store in Hong Kong, aimed at drawing Chinese customers.

China represents the third-largest customer base for the luxury fashion and leather goods retailer. The LVMH Group has taken note of this, and recently created a Chinese version of its website to cater to potential clients in the region.

Louis Vuitton isn’t the only luxury brand focusing on China. China is expected to be the top consumer of luxury goods by 2015, according to a recent Goldman Sachs report, and few can ignore such a seemingly insatiable market.

Posted by Blacks on 10:20 AM | Comments (0)

December 11, 2005

Armani Cosmetics Get Online Makeover

Giorgio Armani is bringing his perfume and cosmetics ranges online in the hopes of exposing the products to a wider audience. The designer is creating a special website for the lines which will offer visitors interactive features, such allowing them to judge colors by applying makeup to an on-screen model.

As online shopping continues to grow, high-end brands like Armani are forced to sacrifice some exclusivity for higher sales. Armani at least is trying to set itself apart from the crowd with an innovative website that tries to recreate a boutique feel.

Posted by Blacks on 03:18 PM | Comments (0)

December 07, 2005

Versace Plans U.S. Growth

Bright colors and daring designs will be the look du jour if Versace has its way. The Italian brand has U.S. growth on its mind and has plans to reinvigorate its business here with fresh investment and ad campaigns.

It recently chose actress Demi Moore as the new face of Versace and she is already appearing in various fashion magazines.

The company says its worldwide sales are still being affected by the economic slowdown following Sept. 11, and it is undergoing a reconstruction to stimulate growth.

Posted by Blacks on 12:16 PM | Comments (0)

December 05, 2005

Armani Keeps In Control

Fashion stalwart Giorgio Armani appears nowhere near slowing down or withdrawing his hand from the business. The 71-year old recently shrugged off questions about whether he is seeking a financial partner, saying he is still very personally involved with the business.

Giorgio is the sole owner of the Armani brand, which posted retail sales of over €4 billion last year.

Armani is continuing its expansion into new markets, and just announced that it will be debuting its Armani Exchange collection in Dubai next year in an effort to tap into the young and rapidly growing market.

Posted by Blacks on 01:41 PM | Comments (0)

November 30, 2005

Wijnants Wins Swiss Textile Prize

Belgian designer Christian Wijnants has won the coveted 2005 Swiss Textiles Award, which comes with a €100,000 prize.

Judges praised Wijnants for his collection’s ethnic look, combining soft, flowing materials with patchwork in earthy tones. The designer beat out other highly-praised nominees such as Giles Deacon of Britain and Undercover from Japan.

Wijnants founded his own label in 2000 and currently has pieces available at select stores in New York, Paris and Tokyo.

His prize is not a cash reward, but goes instead toward the production and promotion of his work.

Posted by Blacks on 12:36 PM | Comments (0)

November 23, 2005

Mr. Smith Goes To LA

Paul Smith, purveyor of dress shirts for the understated dandy, is due to open his first shop in Los Angeles this month. The 5,000 square foot building is sure to become a local landmark given its bold pink exterior.

The store will house Paul’s menswear collection and accessories. The British designer has made his mark with often colorful formal shirts. It’s not hard to imagine Angelenos coupling his shirts with a pair of designer washed jeans for a night out in the big city.

Posted by Blacks on 08:59 PM | Comments (0)

November 21, 2005

Stella Turns Her Hand To Bags

Fresh from her H&M success, Stella McCartney is already planning her next project. The British designer is making a foray into handbags and shoes, with an emphasis on non-leather accessories.

McCartney grabbed the fashion spotlight earlier this month when the mass market clothing line she designed for H&M sold out the first day it hit the racks.

McCartney minders say it was a branding coup and a solid step on the path to profitability. Stella’s parent company The Gucci Group has given her a 2007 deadline to turn a profit.

Posted by Blacks on 12:51 PM | Comments (0)

November 11, 2005

“Stella! Hey, Stella!”

No, that’s not Brando screaming, it’s the hoard of Stella McCartney followers that crowded H&M stores yesterday to snatch up McCartney’s new line of lower-priced goodies.

H&M stores in New York, London and around the globe were swamped with Stella shoppers looking to get their hands on sleek, V-neck tops, skinny pants and oversized sweaters.

Admittedly, we’re not that surprised given that the same kind of frenzy occurred last year when H&M released a Karl Lagerfeld collection. Given that the success of the lower-priced designer brands is a no-brainer, the real question may be how or if the designers’ premium lines are affected when cheaper versions can be seen walking the streets.

Posted by Blacks on 04:43 PM | Comments (0)

November 10, 2005

French Vogue Editor Turns Designer

Apparently French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld isn’t content just to report on the latest fashions because now she is designing as well. The celebrated fashion diva is set to debut her creations in Spring ’06. Her first effort, according to reports, is a cashmere top with elbow patches and tears called “The Tramp.”

Whether this will turn out looking tres chic or like a costume piece from Les Misérables remains to be seen, but given that Roitfeld was a consultant for Tom Ford’s Gucci we are keeping our hopes up.

Posted by Blacks on 11:36 AM | Comments (0)

November 07, 2005

All Hail McQueen

British fashion darling Alexander McQueen is creating a new ready-to-wear collection for Fall 2006 called McQ. The new line will add to McQueen’s already prolific creations in the areas of men’s and womenswear, eyewear, perfume and handbags.

Although details are short on the upcoming line, educated McQueen watchers are predicting the same kind of juxtapositions between elements such as masculinity and femininity that he brings to his couture collections.

However, the designer said that the upcoming line will be younger and more renegade. McQueen has recently tapped the younger market by designing a footwear line under a partnership with Puma.

Posted by Blacks on 10:32 AM | Comments (0)

November 04, 2005

Armani Expands A/X Brand

The Armani Group is expanding its A/X Armani Exchange brand through a joint venture with COMO Holdings. The venture will prompt worldwide expansion of the brand. First stop is Europe, executives of the company have said.

The move is part of an effort by the Italian fashion house to span all levels of the marketplace. Earlier this year it launched Giorgio Armani Privé, a couture collection.

Armed with a wide range of product lines Armani is predicting a boost in annual revenue over the next three years, from its current $300 million to $550 million.

Posted by Blacks on 10:32 AM | Comments (0)

October 26, 2005

Stella Goes Mass Market

H&M shoppers will soon see Stella McCartney designs on the Swedish retailer's racks. The hot shot British designer has made a 40-piece collection of womenswear for H&M under a one-time collaboration. The collection, set to launch in November, follows a similar deal last Fall between H&M and Karl Lagerfeld.

Middle-market retailers are increasingly grabbing at high-end designer names in an effort to add cache to their shops. This is affecting some high-end merchants who are seeing the brands they carry swim downstream.

For mid-market players like H&M, the name game is working. As a mark of its success, the Swedish shop is opening a huge new location in Boston’s Back Bay.

Posted by Blacks on 03:24 PM | Comments (0)

October 24, 2005

Luxury Levi's

Although there’s no dearth of high priced denim out there Levi’s has decided to introduce a new premium line that ranges from $140 to $350. The new line, called Capital E, will be introduced next year.

Each pair of Capital E jeans will take around 15 people to produce, therefore explaining the cost. The jeans will feature details like hand finishing and will be available only in luxury boutiques and high end department stores.

Levi’s might be the original jean king, but their high-ticket line may be coming a bit late. Although denim is still all over the streets, luxury designers are showing a lot less of it on the runways.

Posted by Blacks on 01:50 PM | Comments (0)

October 21, 2005

Future Is Bright ...

Tom Ford may have cast his glance away from luxury apparel for the moment but his future still appears to be made in the shade. There’s little surprise then that the former Gucci guru is unveiling a new line of sunglasses in Paris today.

The sunglass range, which will be manufactured by Marcolin, is just the latest Ford venture that plays around the edge of high fashion. Ford has also struck a deal with Estée Lauder to produce a beauty product and fragrance line.

How long Ford is happy to dabble outside of apparel remains to be seen. A Tom Ford clothing line is already being talked about.

Posted by Blacks on 12:26 PM | Comments (0)